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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.