Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.